Chogori is one of the most dangerous mountain peaks to climb. It is known to mountaneers as peak K2. In August, 2011 mountain climbers Maksut Zhumaev and Vasily Pivtsov from Kazakhstan, after five unsuccessful attempts, managed to conquer the summit. The expedition lasted for over two months and included representatives form Germany, Poland, Austria and Argentine who had to face a lot of obstacles on their way to K2.
Below is what Maksut Zhumaev says about it.
8 people were to take part in the expedition but one of the mountaneers from the USA didn’t make it to Bishkek, Kirgizia because he had some problems with his visa.
It’s June, 17th. They woke up in nomad’s tents at 6 in the morning. They were excited and full of energy. Thier next purpose was to hide their sausages from Chinese customs officers.
The city of Kashgar, China. They came here because it was possible to scale the summit either from China or from Pakistan.
June, 19th. They had to buy a lot of food for the expedition. By the way, they managed to go through the Chinese customs bringing 40 cans of horse meat.
Ilik Village. Here they rent out camels and it is a very pricy service because in China they do not allow mountaneers to use helicopters and carriers are extremely rare in the region.
They had to rent 40 camels and hire 10 cameleers. Each camel is able to carry up to 100 kg of load. That day, the villagers made a lot of money.
June, 24th. It’s cloudy and windy.
June, 25th. It’s +35C. They had to cross the Chogori River which was very dangerous. It’s rather deep, with a swift current. Luckily, everything was Ok and they made it to their camp safe and sound.
July, 1st. To get to K2, they had to travel 20 km of moraines and glaciers which was really dangerous. They divided the distance into four parts and after covering each part they had to send information about their location to their relatives or friends.
Their Advanced Base Camp. In these tents, the members of the expedition spent most of their time. They could see green grass growing and just 100 meters away, it was glaciers.
Reporting to the civilization.
They broke three teapots during the first week of the expedition. But it did not matter. K2 was what really mattered.